Starting an AHA skincare routine for surface smoothing skin might seem a bit tricky at first. You might wonder where to begin or if it’s the right thing for your skin. Don’t worry!
It’s much simpler than you think, and we’re going to walk through it step by step. After this, you’ll know exactly how to get that smoother skin you’re looking for, and we’ll even cover what to do if things don’t go as planned.
What Are AHAs and How Do They Help Smooth Skin?
AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, are like little helpers for your skin’s surface. They are natural acids found in things like fruits and milk. Their main job is to gently lift away the old, dead skin cells that sit on top of your skin.
When these dead cells build up, they can make your skin look dull, feel rough, and even cause bumps. AHAs help to dissolve the “glue” holding these cells together, allowing them to shed more easily.
Think of your skin like a wall. Over time, some of the bricks (skin cells) get old and worn. AHAs help to gently clean off those old bricks so new, fresh ones can show through.
This process makes your skin look brighter, feel smoother, and can even help with fine lines and dark spots over time.
Common AHAs You’ll See
You’ll likely come across a few different AHAs when you’re looking for products. Each one has its own strengths:
- Glycolic Acid: This is one of the most popular AHAs. It comes from sugar cane and is a small molecule, meaning it can penetrate the skin deeply. This makes it very effective for smoothing and brightening.
- Lactic Acid: Found in sour milk, lactic acid is a bit larger than glycolic acid. It’s known for being gentler and also has moisturizing properties, which can be a plus for drier skin types.
- Citric Acid: This AHA comes from citrus fruits. It’s often used in lower concentrations and can help with antioxidant protection as well as exfoliation.
- Malic Acid: Found in apples, malic acid is another good option that can help with exfoliation and hydration.
Choosing an AHA often depends on your skin type and what you want to achieve. For general surface smoothing, glycolic and lactic acids are excellent starting points.
Building Your AHA Skincare Routine for Surface Smoothing Skin
Creating an effective AHA skincare routine for surface smoothing skin doesn’t have to be complicated. The key is to introduce AHAs slowly and use them wisely. Here’s a simple way to build it:
Step 1: Start Slow and Low
When you first start using AHAs, it’s super important not to go too strong or use them too often. Your skin needs time to get used to them.
- Frequency: Begin by using your AHA product only 1-2 times per week. You can gradually increase this as your skin gets used to it, maybe to every other night or even nightly if your skin tolerates it well.
- Concentration: Look for products with a lower percentage of AHA when you’re starting out. For glycolic acid, something around 5-10% is a good beginner level. For lactic acid, you might find products in a similar range.
Using AHAs too much or too strong can lead to irritation, redness, or peeling, which is the opposite of what we want. Patience is key here.
Step 2: Choose the Right Product Type
AHAs come in different forms. The most common ones for beginners are:
- Cleansers: These are a gentle way to start. You use them like a regular cleanser, but they have AHAs that work while you wash. This is a low-risk way to get some exfoliating benefits.
- Toners/Essences: These are applied after cleansing and before serums. They can provide a good dose of AHAs and are often easy to incorporate.
- Serums/Treatments: These are usually more potent and are left on the skin. If you’re looking for more noticeable smoothing, a serum might be the way to go, but start with a lower concentration and use it less often.
- Moisturizers: Some moisturizers contain AHAs. This is another gentle option, especially if you have drier skin and want to boost hydration while you exfoliate.
For surface smoothing, a toner or serum is often the most effective. If you’re new to AHAs, a cleanser or moisturizer with AHAs might be a safer first step to see how your skin reacts.
Step 3: Application Order
When you’re using AHAs as part of a larger routine, timing matters. Generally, AHAs are applied after cleansing and toning, but before heavier creams or oils.
Here’s a typical order for an evening routine:
- Cleanse: Wash your face with a gentle cleanser.
- Tone (Optional): Apply a hydrating toner if you use one.
- AHA Treatment: Apply your AHA product (toner, serum, or treatment). Wait a few minutes for it to absorb before the next step.
- Moisturize: Apply your regular moisturizer. This helps to hydrate your skin and can soothe any dryness from the AHA.
In the morning, you’ll want to focus on protecting your skin. AHAs can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so sunscreen is a must!
Step 4: Sunscreen is Non-Negotiable
This is one of the most important rules for anyone using AHAs. Because AHAs remove the top layer of dead skin cells, they leave your new, younger skin more exposed. This new skin is more delicate and prone to sun damage.
Always wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher every single day, even if it’s cloudy. Reapply it throughout the day if you’re going to be outside for a while. Failing to use sunscreen while using AHAs can undo all the good work and even lead to more sun spots and premature aging.
Step 5: Listen to Your Skin
Your skin is the best guide. Pay attention to how it feels and looks.
- Signs of Over-Exfoliation: Redness, stinging, burning, excessive dryness, peeling, or increased sensitivity are all signs that you might be using AHAs too much or too strong. If you see these, take a break from the AHA product for a few days or a week until your skin calms down.
- What to Expect: Some mild tingling or a slight warming sensation when you first apply an AHA is normal, especially with glycolic acid. However, this should pass quickly. If it persists or is uncomfortable, the product might be too strong for you.
Adjusting the frequency of use or trying a different type of AHA can make a big difference if your skin is reacting negatively.
Things to Avoid When Using AHAs
To make sure your AHA skincare routine for surface smoothing skin works best and safely, there are a few things to keep in mind:
- Don’t Over-Exfoliate: We’ve said it before, but it’s worth repeating. Using too many exfoliating products (like scrubs, other chemical exfoliants, or strong facial brushes) at the same time as AHAs can lead to over-exfoliation. Stick to one main exfoliating treatment at a time.
- Avoid Harsh Ingredients: Try to avoid using very strong active ingredients like high concentrations of Vitamin C, retinol, or benzoyl peroxide on the same night you use your AHA product, especially when you’re starting out. You can alternate nights or use them at different times of the day if your skin can handle it.
- Don’t Pick or Scrub: Resist the urge to pick at any peeling skin or to scrub your face aggressively. Let the AHA do its work gently.
- Be Careful with Waxing/Depilatories: AHAs can make your skin more sensitive. Avoid using waxing products or depilatories on areas where you’ve applied AHAs for at least 24-48 hours before and after.
When to See Different Types of AHAs
Sometimes, one AHA might be better than another depending on your skin’s needs and concerns. Here’s a quick look:
| AHA | Best For | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Glycolic Acid | Surface smoothing, brightening, fine lines, mild acne | Most potent, can be irritating if overused. Good for oilier or resilient skin. |
| Lactic Acid | Gentle exfoliation, hydration, dullness, sensitive skin | Less irritating, also a humectant (draws moisture). Good for dry or sensitive skin. |
| Citric Acid | Antioxidant, mild exfoliation, brightening | Often found in combination products. Good for overall skin tone improvement. |
| Malic Acid | Exfoliation, hydration, mild dullness | Similar to lactic acid but can be more effective in certain formulations. |
For general surface smoothing, glycolic and lactic acids are usually the top choices. If you have sensitive skin, lactic acid is often a gentler start. If your skin is a bit more robust and you want to tackle texture and fine lines more aggressively, glycolic acid is a great option.
Frequently Asked Questions
Question: How often can I use an AHA product?
Answer: When you first start, use it only 1-2 times per week. As your skin gets used to it, you can gradually increase the frequency to every other night or even nightly if your skin tolerates it well without irritation. Always listen to your skin.
Question: Can I use AHAs in the morning?
Answer: While you can apply AHAs in the morning, it’s generally recommended to use them at night. This is because AHAs can increase your skin’s sensitivity to the sun. If you do use them in the morning, it’s absolutely essential to wear sunscreen afterwards.
Question: What if my skin gets red or stings after using AHAs?
Answer: Some mild tingling can be normal, but significant redness, stinging, or burning means your skin is likely irritated. Stop using the AHA product for a few days until your skin calms down. When you start again, use it less often or try a product with a lower concentration.
Question: Can AHAs help with acne?
Answer: Yes, AHAs can help with acne by exfoliating dead skin cells that can clog pores. They can also help to improve the appearance of acne scars and dark spots left behind by breakouts, contributing to smoother skin overall.
Question: Do I need to use a separate moisturizer when using an AHA?
Answer: Yes, it’s a good idea to use a moisturizer after your AHA product, especially if you have dry or normal skin. AHAs can sometimes be drying, and a moisturizer will help keep your skin hydrated and balanced, supporting the skin barrier.
Final Thoughts
Putting together an AHA skincare routine for surface smoothing skin is all about being consistent and kind to your face. You’re looking to gently remove those old skin cells to let the fresh, smooth skin underneath shine through. Starting with lower concentrations and less frequent use is the smartest way to begin, letting your skin adjust without causing problems.
Remember that sunscreen is your best friend when you’re using AHAs, as it protects that newly revealed skin from the sun. Pay close attention to how your skin responds; it will tell you if you’re doing too much. If you notice any irritation, take a step back and let your skin recover before trying again, maybe with a gentler product or less frequent application.
Building up slowly will help you achieve that smoother, brighter complexion you’re aiming for. Don’t be afraid to experiment a little to find what works perfectly for your unique skin.